Home

10%

Attica

Greece

By Alexander Schlosser

A lot has been said about Greece already – about its history, its heritage, about its struggling during the ongoing financial crisis. However, even with all this in the back of the mind, Greece is different. It distinguishes itself with a diversity in culture and architecture that is beyond comparison in Europe and that makes it a place I highly recommend everybody to visit.

Never have I seen that many visually inspiring places, that many striking structures and textures before. Never have I experienced a region that feels that resigned and progressive at the same time. A region in an obviously precarious economic situation that still thrives thanks to its many open-minded, curios, easygoing and welcoming people.

This is a story about a two-week trip to Attica, the region that encompasses the city of Athens.

Athens

One might imagine Athens to be similar to other history rich European hotspots like Rome – but the city is different. Historical sites are visible, but they are not the core of the experience. Whereas Rome might sometimes feel like a giant theme park that boasts countless ancient buildings and sites, Athens is more like a maze that encourages its visitors to discover places by themselves. Not that there are no guided tours and areas crowded by the usual tourist groups. However, everything feels more connected, a coherent city where you can visit historical sites, wealthy neighborhoods and completely rundown areas within a couple of blocks.

Sure, it is quite presumptuous to say that ramshackle streets and poor parts of the town are part of the "experience". Especially since millions of people are still suffering from the consequences of the economic crisis. Yet there is an energy that makes these areas special that somehow reminded me of Brooklyn. The energy to get something done, to take the existing and create something new. Someone sprayed Athens is the new Berlin on a wall of an abandoned mansion. And while almost everybody is currently claiming to be the new creative hub of the world, the sentence felt very fitting in Athens.

Acropolis

Extremely crowded and pretty expensive – but worth the visit anyway. Its location on a rocky outcrop in the center of Athens comes with an amazing view on the city – especially when you arrive late at the day when the sun sets and everyone else is busy rushing for the exit and heading to the Plaka for dinner.

ELLINIKON INTERNATIONAL

Strolling through Athens and its suburbs one will find a variety of abandoned sites: churches, private houses, public spaces, sport facilities. An entire airport though? Well, there it was, right at the coast, not even 20 minutes away from Athen’s city center. Ellinikon International Airport was shut down in 2001 after a new airport had been built for the Olympics – and it still feels as if everybody just left overnight back then.

ELLINIKON INTERNATIONAL

One of the many places in Athens that became an unintended modern treasure chest overnight.

Southern Attica

Sometimes the best locations pop up unexpectedly: We were on our way to visit the Temple of Poseidon – a rather unspectacular sight one can easily skip – at the south end of Attica when we spotted not only one, but two abandoned hotel resorts just off the coastal road.

HIT AND RUN

An abandoned quarry – fully equipped with trucks, earthmovers and historic cars (including three Mercedes-Benz L 311 from 1949).

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center

After a couple of days exploring the city and its surroundings, we were longing for modern architecture. Ramshackle buildings and rundown neighborhoods might be exciting and the Greek heritage worth visiting the city more than once – but what becomes obvious pretty quickly: New structures within the city are – except from well-known examples like the Acropolis Museum – rare. That is why we left the highway immediately when we spotted the Cultural Center on our way back to our apartment in Glyfada. The photos I took might not be best to showcase the building itself – but you might get an idea of how well designed this structure is.

Piraeus

Piraeus was by far the lowlight of our trip. Maybe the biggest problem were our own – somehow romanticized – expectations: We dreamed up a picturesque harbor town, streets lined with historic buildings and a prestigious Mediterranean promenade with little shops and restaurants. And even its website highlights the "fascinating and ancient history", describes the port-city as "vibrant, with sights worth seeing". None of that is really the case though.

The truth is: Piraeus can be quite nice – but leave the piers where the world’s biggest cruise ships dock and the marina behind and you will find yourself in a world that can be both desolate and intimidating. Yes, parts of Athens and its suburbs are rundown, too. However, Piraeus is on a completely different level. It lacks the vibe, the energy that makes Athens so special, that shows everybody that its people are not just suffering from the economic crisis, but that they are ready to try something new.

And the city of Piraeus’ solution? Building a new high-speed train link to the center of Athens so people arriving via ship can skip Piraeus entirely – does not sound as if the port’s situation is getting better anytime soon.

Aegina

Aegina: our last stop – and one of the few attempts to escape the city’s summer heat for a couple of hours. The island – just about an hour off the coast of Athens – might not be as well-known as Rhodos, not as beautiful as Korfu and definitely not as crowded as the hills of Santorini. Yes, there is a promenade lined with restaurants and the obligatory tourist shops. And yes, there are guided bus and coach tours. One has just to leave the main roads behind though to find himself walking through the outskirts of a small city that is as picturesque as it is authentic.

Footnotes

Sony RX1r II

Button Label

FootNotes

Sony RX1r II

Breathe In, Breathe Out

Attica

Greece

FootNotes

Varanasi, India

Kolkata, India

Atlas Mountains

Jodhpur

Jaipur

Delhi