After a challenging experience in Jaipur, I was on the verge of canceling my train to Jodhpur and heading straight back to Delhi. However, the state of Rajasthan had long been on my bucket list, and I felt compelled to give it another chance.
Despite still battling the lingering effects of food poisoning and indulging in electrolytes and chamomile tea, I embarked on another overnight train journey through the desert. And just like the previous journey, it was remarkably comfortable, with pleasant beds, friendly fellow passengers, and – most importantly for me – decent toilets. To be fair, I had booked a 2nd-class coach, and I can't speak for the experience in the five classes below that (probably not as pleasant). However, contrary to the horror stories I had read online, I was surprised by how enjoyable my train rides in India were, even in comparison to Europe's ÖBB Nightjets (Kaisersemmel, I didn't miss you).
Upon arriving in Jodhpur, I took a taxi straight to the old quarters surrounding Mehrangarh Fort – the majestic centerpiece and main attraction of Jodhpur. In fact, I would make this area my base for the entire week – not only for its intriguing architecture but also for its pedestrian-friendly street layout, a welcome change after some more adventurous walks in Delhi.
Compared to Jaipur, the city is perfect for solo travelers, devoid of the annoyance of overly ambitious rickshaw drivers and shop owners. I'm still uncertain about the reasons, but it might be a combination of fewer tourists overall and the maze-like city center, often too narrow or steep for any motorized vehicle. In retrospect, I would probably skip Jaipur and head straight here.
Sightseeing-wise, there isn't a specific attraction I would highlight, aside from its unmissable and truly magnificent fort. Beyond that, you can't go wrong wandering aimlessly through the old city center. And as with many places in India, it's the random encounters with the open and curious locals that truly make the trip worthwhile.
From a photographic perspective, this blog post is somewhat predictable: houses painted in shades of blue, the fort, and the occasional dogs. While Delhi and Jaipur surprised me in many ways, Jodhpur mostly felt and looked as expected. Normally, I might have been a little disappointed, but four weeks into traveling alone, it was a welcome change.